Friday, December 7, 2012
I did most of my packing last night. I woke at 830 and had a big breakfast, took a shower and checked out. I was on the road by 945. I gassed up and on to Reykjavik.
The first hour was uneventful and I didn't see another car. It is amazing how remote this part of a remote island, Iceland, is. I'm driving in a valley created by a glacier and on either side I am surrounded by tall rugged snow covered mountain ranges. The road is clear and I'm thinking I'll be in Reykjavik sooner than I thought.
As I approach my first climb and begin to emerge from the safety of the valley, I think something is wrong with the car because it suddenly pulls to the left. I am fighting to keep the car on the road. Then as I begin the climb, I see snow being blown across the road from left to right. I can barely see the road and now understand why I'm having to fight the steering wheel and work hard to keep the car straight. As I climb, the visibility is getting worse and worse and the wind is getting stronger and stronger. I don't know if it is snowing or if is merely the wind blowing existing snow across the road. All I know I'm in a white out and grateful there are no other vehicles on the road. I pass the weather station and begin a hazardous descent. When I get to the bottom, I'm back into a protected valley and what I just experienced has given way to a clear road with no wind or snow. Very bizarre.
After another half hour or so, I back into a climbing mode and the same conditions that I experienced before are back and worse as the snow is now accumulating on the road making for very difficult driving. Now it is snowing. I catch up to an eighteen wheeler that has a piggy back attached. the piggyback is swaying back and forth on the road and I give him plenty of space. Visibility is near zero. As we come to another rise, I am able to pass the truck and do so. I'm glad I'm past the truck as the conditions worsen and I don't need that monster in front of me.
As I continue south, the snow slowing changes to sleet and eventually to rain as the landscape which was all snow now slowly becomes bereft of snow until I can't se any snow except on the mountain tops. As I approach Borgarnes, a town about 100 KM north of Reykjavik, the wind and rain resemble what I experienced with the hurricane, Sandy. As I leave Borgarnes over a bridge, the waves in the lake are three foot swells as the crash the bridge ramparts. The wind is gusting so much I am being thrown all over the road. To make matters worse, I am heading into lots of oncoming traffic. The gusts cause the car to lurch left and right and the wind is blowing all the mist the cars and trucks generate across the road into my path. The car is getting clean, but I'm driving very slowly, gripping the steering wheel with the windshield wipers on full blast.
My first respite is the 6 KM tunnel. I turn off the wipers and calmly cruise through preparing for when I exit this serenity. Chaos immediately greets me on the other side with an accident in my lane as the wind again takes control of my car. Obviously, those in the accident weren't ready for the wind again. I get by the chaos and begin the final approach to Reykjavik. The single lane becomes a two lane road and more traffic is merging on as I now have to navigate four roundabouts in the next 6 KM until I'm back on the main three lane freeway into Reykjavik. The wind has mellowed and the rain has lessened. I take the exit after the airport for the guesthouse. I arrive and park and get out. No rain, no wind. I grab the shovel and go in to be greeted by Evelyne and Phillipe. I give Phillipe the shovel and thank him for its use and explain How I did need it. Evelyne informs me that another guest is stuck in Akureyri because of the snow. I just escaped. Apparently the conditions up north are terrible and the roads I passed are now closed. In fact north of Borgarnes I passed three snow plows heading back from whence I came. I dodged a bullet.
I unpacked and set out for lunch at the soup in a bread cafe. It was raining very lightly and was warm. I'm overwhelmed by all the people and cars. It is as if I have just emerged from the woods after a winter of survival. The cafe is full and a table in the corner by the window is just clearing for me. I order the reindeer soup and a Christmas beer. No Santa doesn't serve it to me. A table of Brits and the rest are Icelanders. The soup is fabulous.
After lunch my next stop is the Phallological Museum which has moved from Husavik last August. This is a very unique museum, one of a kind with a sister museum in Rotterdam. That's right, I've entered the penis museum whose slogan is "This museum isn't for pussies." The collection is massive. Specimens are in jars, others are dried and salted. The collection consists of members of all species. Of course there are some great gag rooms and rooms about the use of the phallus in different cultures. It is a very entertaining museum. My most enjoyable part is watching as couples pass by and discover what this museum is. Young boys are the most mature, NOT. I highly recommend this as a go to museum when in Reykjavik. The gift shop is to die for.
I strolled back up Langavegur Street and then headed home to rest before dinner. Tonight I have decided to eat at 3 Frakkar. Tonight I will have appetizers, tapas style, I start with a reindeer pate, country style with a lovely cumberland sauce and red currents. I follow that with the puffin. I complete the meal with a whale and arctic char sashimi type dish. I have their last Kaldi Christmas beer. I made reservations for 8PM tomorrow night. I want to see the waterfalls near Vik tomorrow. Since I'm exhausted from the drive and it is raining out, I'm going to read and get to bed early so I can have a full day tomorrow.
The first hour was uneventful and I didn't see another car. It is amazing how remote this part of a remote island, Iceland, is. I'm driving in a valley created by a glacier and on either side I am surrounded by tall rugged snow covered mountain ranges. The road is clear and I'm thinking I'll be in Reykjavik sooner than I thought.
As I approach my first climb and begin to emerge from the safety of the valley, I think something is wrong with the car because it suddenly pulls to the left. I am fighting to keep the car on the road. Then as I begin the climb, I see snow being blown across the road from left to right. I can barely see the road and now understand why I'm having to fight the steering wheel and work hard to keep the car straight. As I climb, the visibility is getting worse and worse and the wind is getting stronger and stronger. I don't know if it is snowing or if is merely the wind blowing existing snow across the road. All I know I'm in a white out and grateful there are no other vehicles on the road. I pass the weather station and begin a hazardous descent. When I get to the bottom, I'm back into a protected valley and what I just experienced has given way to a clear road with no wind or snow. Very bizarre.
After another half hour or so, I back into a climbing mode and the same conditions that I experienced before are back and worse as the snow is now accumulating on the road making for very difficult driving. Now it is snowing. I catch up to an eighteen wheeler that has a piggy back attached. the piggyback is swaying back and forth on the road and I give him plenty of space. Visibility is near zero. As we come to another rise, I am able to pass the truck and do so. I'm glad I'm past the truck as the conditions worsen and I don't need that monster in front of me.
As I continue south, the snow slowing changes to sleet and eventually to rain as the landscape which was all snow now slowly becomes bereft of snow until I can't se any snow except on the mountain tops. As I approach Borgarnes, a town about 100 KM north of Reykjavik, the wind and rain resemble what I experienced with the hurricane, Sandy. As I leave Borgarnes over a bridge, the waves in the lake are three foot swells as the crash the bridge ramparts. The wind is gusting so much I am being thrown all over the road. To make matters worse, I am heading into lots of oncoming traffic. The gusts cause the car to lurch left and right and the wind is blowing all the mist the cars and trucks generate across the road into my path. The car is getting clean, but I'm driving very slowly, gripping the steering wheel with the windshield wipers on full blast.
My first respite is the 6 KM tunnel. I turn off the wipers and calmly cruise through preparing for when I exit this serenity. Chaos immediately greets me on the other side with an accident in my lane as the wind again takes control of my car. Obviously, those in the accident weren't ready for the wind again. I get by the chaos and begin the final approach to Reykjavik. The single lane becomes a two lane road and more traffic is merging on as I now have to navigate four roundabouts in the next 6 KM until I'm back on the main three lane freeway into Reykjavik. The wind has mellowed and the rain has lessened. I take the exit after the airport for the guesthouse. I arrive and park and get out. No rain, no wind. I grab the shovel and go in to be greeted by Evelyne and Phillipe. I give Phillipe the shovel and thank him for its use and explain How I did need it. Evelyne informs me that another guest is stuck in Akureyri because of the snow. I just escaped. Apparently the conditions up north are terrible and the roads I passed are now closed. In fact north of Borgarnes I passed three snow plows heading back from whence I came. I dodged a bullet.
I unpacked and set out for lunch at the soup in a bread cafe. It was raining very lightly and was warm. I'm overwhelmed by all the people and cars. It is as if I have just emerged from the woods after a winter of survival. The cafe is full and a table in the corner by the window is just clearing for me. I order the reindeer soup and a Christmas beer. No Santa doesn't serve it to me. A table of Brits and the rest are Icelanders. The soup is fabulous.
After lunch my next stop is the Phallological Museum which has moved from Husavik last August. This is a very unique museum, one of a kind with a sister museum in Rotterdam. That's right, I've entered the penis museum whose slogan is "This museum isn't for pussies." The collection is massive. Specimens are in jars, others are dried and salted. The collection consists of members of all species. Of course there are some great gag rooms and rooms about the use of the phallus in different cultures. It is a very entertaining museum. My most enjoyable part is watching as couples pass by and discover what this museum is. Young boys are the most mature, NOT. I highly recommend this as a go to museum when in Reykjavik. The gift shop is to die for.
I strolled back up Langavegur Street and then headed home to rest before dinner. Tonight I have decided to eat at 3 Frakkar. Tonight I will have appetizers, tapas style, I start with a reindeer pate, country style with a lovely cumberland sauce and red currents. I follow that with the puffin. I complete the meal with a whale and arctic char sashimi type dish. I have their last Kaldi Christmas beer. I made reservations for 8PM tomorrow night. I want to see the waterfalls near Vik tomorrow. Since I'm exhausted from the drive and it is raining out, I'm going to read and get to bed early so I can have a full day tomorrow.
Thursday, December 6, 2012
I woke early and read some before going down for breakfast. I had a good sleep and decided to spend the day exploring Akureyri more. I have a big drive back to Reykjavik and civilization tomorrow, so I want to lay low, have a good dinner, see of Northern Lights will happen and just rest.
I discover that last night was not a good night for the lights as Alan informs me since some other guests went to the same spot past Dalvik I had been to and they had no success.
I got out by noon and did my last banking and set out to drive the roads and byways of Akureyri. I drove up to the ski slope which was a fun ride and very very cold once I got there. On my way up three lads with snowboards were walking and hiking the road. I stopped and got them in the car and got them up to the slope. They didn't speak English well enough to have a conversation. It was a long winding road and they were very grateful for the lift.
I stayed to watch them make a run. It took about 20 minutes for them to get to the top of the run and about 10 minutes to come down. The slope has a snow mobile area. They have a rope tow from the bottom of the slopes to the chalet. There is a T-bar to the top of a beginning hill and a three person chair to the top of the slope that seems to have two ways down. The ride down the hill to town was steep and fun as I stayed in second gear all the way.
I then roamed about the area above Akureyri which has a large apartment building complex, probably for middle income dwellers and then to another area with family housing, and then through a very upscale community.
I wound my way down to sea level and went to the airport museum. The Industry Museum and the Motorcycle Museum were closed. Next time.
I had dinner at Rub23. I had the mussels which were very salty. I followed that with salmon, eel, and char sushi. I concluded with char tempura. I wonder why there is so little whale, puffin, and horse here in Akureyri.
I went back to the hotel and watched The Spurs advance in the Europa League.
I head out at 10PM for my final chase of the Northern Lights. I went past Dlavik to the tunnel parking spot. When I arrived the Northern Lights were awaiting me in all their glory. Every star in the sky is visible. The Milky Way dominates. Not a cloud can be seen and it is freezing with a good strong wind. I park the car so I can sit in it with the window open and the engine running so I can take advantage of the heated seats. I have a perfect comfortable view of tonight's show. The lights extend from horizon to horizon. Below the bottom of the rainbow shape I see stars. The sky below is dark. Then the green band of the Northern Lights undulates in intensity. On the upper curve spikes shoot out at various times to various lengths all along the stretch of the Lights. The most intense part is above Grimsey Island. Off to the far right at the end, the lights are really dancing as they resemble the hair of a troll. The intensity of tonight's show is mind blowing and truly awesome and humbling. The show lasts for more than an hour and then they simply fade away. A far better show than a couple of nights before and deserves a grand applause.
I stop at Kaldi for an unfiltered Christmas ale before going home and packing for my trip back to Reykjavik. The week here in Akureyri has been fabulous and well worth it. I will return and have found that I find Akureyri more pleasant than Reykjavik with so much to offer in the area and so less congested. I will be sad to leave.
I discover that last night was not a good night for the lights as Alan informs me since some other guests went to the same spot past Dalvik I had been to and they had no success.
I got out by noon and did my last banking and set out to drive the roads and byways of Akureyri. I drove up to the ski slope which was a fun ride and very very cold once I got there. On my way up three lads with snowboards were walking and hiking the road. I stopped and got them in the car and got them up to the slope. They didn't speak English well enough to have a conversation. It was a long winding road and they were very grateful for the lift.
I stayed to watch them make a run. It took about 20 minutes for them to get to the top of the run and about 10 minutes to come down. The slope has a snow mobile area. They have a rope tow from the bottom of the slopes to the chalet. There is a T-bar to the top of a beginning hill and a three person chair to the top of the slope that seems to have two ways down. The ride down the hill to town was steep and fun as I stayed in second gear all the way.
I then roamed about the area above Akureyri which has a large apartment building complex, probably for middle income dwellers and then to another area with family housing, and then through a very upscale community.
I wound my way down to sea level and went to the airport museum. The Industry Museum and the Motorcycle Museum were closed. Next time.
I had dinner at Rub23. I had the mussels which were very salty. I followed that with salmon, eel, and char sushi. I concluded with char tempura. I wonder why there is so little whale, puffin, and horse here in Akureyri.
I went back to the hotel and watched The Spurs advance in the Europa League.
I head out at 10PM for my final chase of the Northern Lights. I went past Dlavik to the tunnel parking spot. When I arrived the Northern Lights were awaiting me in all their glory. Every star in the sky is visible. The Milky Way dominates. Not a cloud can be seen and it is freezing with a good strong wind. I park the car so I can sit in it with the window open and the engine running so I can take advantage of the heated seats. I have a perfect comfortable view of tonight's show. The lights extend from horizon to horizon. Below the bottom of the rainbow shape I see stars. The sky below is dark. Then the green band of the Northern Lights undulates in intensity. On the upper curve spikes shoot out at various times to various lengths all along the stretch of the Lights. The most intense part is above Grimsey Island. Off to the far right at the end, the lights are really dancing as they resemble the hair of a troll. The intensity of tonight's show is mind blowing and truly awesome and humbling. The show lasts for more than an hour and then they simply fade away. A far better show than a couple of nights before and deserves a grand applause.
Hotel Akureyri
I stop at Kaldi for an unfiltered Christmas ale before going home and packing for my trip back to Reykjavik. The week here in Akureyri has been fabulous and well worth it. I will return and have found that I find Akureyri more pleasant than Reykjavik with so much to offer in the area and so less congested. I will be sad to leave.
Husavik is the destination for those who want to go whale watching. It lies at the northern end of the eastern fjord north of Myvatn. The valley is very fertile and I pass many farms on my way to this fabled town. I cross a couple of single lane bridges and other two lane bridges that replaced former single lane bridges. Iceland is always under construction, naturally from eruptions and fro man. The approach to Husavik reveals a truly quaint village, a whaling village. I drive around just exploring and find the Culture House. I stop.
What a find. I spend 2 hours roaming the main exhibit, which is a complete history of Icelandic culture. Separate rooms contain artifacts and information about house construction, music, woolen trade, whaling, birds, animals, fish, hunting, education, cooking, language, family life and more. There are rooms set up to display what a typical house would be like in the 1800's and early 1900's. Slide shows in English, too, about the cooperative movement and Independence.
Upstairs was a photographic history of Icelandic people. The history of the hat for men, a hat I must say I've seen a lot of in Akureyri, esp on Saturday evening when everyone gets dressed up and goes out. An slew of beauty pageants, men and women in bathing suits, some sports and family pictures through the 20th Century. What was so amazing about these pictures was the likeness of the people was the same throughout the century.
The culture is an old one and unchanged over these past 700 years. The language is also the same from 700 years ago. This is shown in the documents from a long time ago that can still be read by today's Icelanders. This takes some time to truly understand the depth and intensity of this culture. This is an old if not oldest culture on earth today. Geneticists study the Icelandic people for obvious reasons of purity of gene.I go to the other wing that contains a new structure housing old whaling skiffs and boats and artifacts about the whaling industry in Husavik. I'm exhausted after a very educational and entertaining 2 hours.
I drive around the town some more and find the Whaling museum. This is very reminiscent of the Nantucket Whaling Museum, but with more whale skeletons and pictures of whale beaching and archaeological digs around the area of whales. The most unique aspect of the museum is the 18 hole putting course which is filled with two groups of old, very old men playing gulf as they meander around the museum. The curator informs me they set this up to use the space for seniors to get exercise in the winter. There are a couple of men who obviously had had strokes and this seems to be very good exercise and socialization in these harsh winter times. I see one very elderly man get a few hole in ones while others struggle just to five putt. Unique.
The daylight is waning, and I wish to navigate to Myvatn over a road newly built but not completed and is still gravel in the middle. It is tough in the middle as expected and I'm lucky because a plow has been through earlier today otherwise I wouldn't be passing this way. But I knew this because the curator of the Culture House has made a phone call for me to find out if this road was clear, and he assured me it was. It is a long and lovely road through such eye candy beauty of color of sky and water juxtaposed to the bright clean crystal white of the surrounding snow. The only blemish is the road I'm on which is a black ribbon weaving its way to Myvatn.
I decide to drive to the Dettifoss road to see if it has been cleared. It has not and I'm disappointed, but don't despair as I will be back again.
I arrive at the Nature Baths as the sun has set, 1630. I spend more time in the steam bath and hot tub, then in the actual lagoon as the water temperature is the coldest of the three days I've been here. Also the wind is coming in from a different direction making it a bit more uncomfortable.
The drive back to Akureyri is familiar now and takes an hour. I see that the Spanish restaurant is open and I stop for dinner. The owner chef is from the Canary Islands and provides unique Canary Island recipes. I have the soup, an onion and root vegetable broth that is creamy and delightful. I order the Spanish omelet and Canary style potatoes which comes with a tasty fennel, coriander, and basil sauce. The meal is delicious and I take half the omelet home for tomorrow's lunch.
My adventures are catching up with me so I stay in watch some football, see Chelsea eliminated from Championship League play this year despite their 6-1 trouncing of their opponent, and go to bed instead of Northern Lights chasing. The sky is not conducive any way.
I woke early and after breakfast headed out to Myvatn again to visit some waterfalls.
My first stop was Godafoss. This is just off Rt 1 before a tricky single lane bridge. I navigated up the single lane access road and reached the parking area about 500 meters from Rt 1. Easy access to a wonderfully beautiful and powerfully spiritual waterfall. Seeing this magnificent waterfall in winter covered with ice and surrounded by snow was a treat. I remember it from my last visit 2 years ago in August.
I continued on my way to my goal, Dettifoss, 50 KM east of Myvatn. Dettifoss is the most powerful waterfalls in Europe. These falls are a gem and worth a real struggle to reach. My last visit was one of the most difficult drives over the roads of Iceland in that last visit 2 years ago in August. I didn't have an intention of seeing them this trip, but I learned that since my last visit, a paved road had been made from Rt 1 to the parking lot at Dettifoss. After driving through Myvatn, I drove 26 KM to the turnoff which was the beginning of a 24 KM road. Immediately I was greeted by a sign that warned me that the road was not cared for during winter. I crossed my fingers and headed off to Dettifoss.
The road was pretty clear and a plow had been through, but not recently. The wind created drifts across the road. Within 2 KM I was confronted by a snow obstacle that I was able to plow through. I knew I was up for an adventure. The landscape was frightening and severe as the paved road was partially covered with drifts making a two lane road a single lane road. There was a car in front of me as fresh made tire tracks indicated. So the raod was clear as far as I could tell since these were single tracks of one car. I felt hope. I approached a white road and and stopped to get out and survey the condition of the road ahead. The now was about 6 inches deep and lasted for about 100 yards. Since the vehicle in front of me had already made tracks I could follow through on those. I backed up to get some speed when I hit this snow field. I navigated through it in second gear weaving most of the way through. I got through and realized this was going to be the deepest snow I could through if I was going to reach Dettifoss. About halfway on this road, I reached a high snow back, but realized I could plow through this tall but short snow bank, especially since the car in front of me had already made the way clearer for me. I may have made it through this one, too, even if the car in front of me hadn't already made a path. After 2 more KM I came upon the car in front of me which was a large Iceland Jeep with huge balloon tires. He was huge up in a large snow drift. This was the end of the road for me. I got out, grabbed my shovel and walked up to the Jeep and helped him dig out. He was upset with himself because he had not let out air before attempting to get through this drift. He had been here 2 days ago and he had no problem. The wind of the last 2 days had created more and deeper snow drifts. When he let out air the belly of the Jeep got hung up on the snow. He was digging out. I helped on the passenger side. After about a half hour of digging he finally got through. He had been hired by the 2 passengers to get them to the waterfalls. Since I had helped them, I was offered the empty seat for the rest of the journey. I went back and got my camera, locked up the car and left it there. He put my shovel in the back of his Jeep and adjusted the air in his tires. He had an air pump attached to his car since he needed it when he did this over snow and glacier driving. The rest of the way was pretty clear until we got to the turn for the Dettifoss parking lot. We were confronted by a 5 foot drift that he navigated over with some work. When we reached the parking lot, we were the only visitors, no surprise.
The driver was Gunter and he was about 30. The passengers who hired him were a couple from Frankfurt, Germany, Frederick and Ingrid. The walk from there was over snow and was familair to me, since this was the same place I had been 2 years ago. It was a tough walk as the snow wasn't hard enough to bear our weight so we broke through often and that made the walk a real workout. My glasses fogged and I was beginning to sweat. When we finally reached the falls, the struggle was worth it as she was a magnificent sight. And being alone here was even more gratifying. I could only imagine the crowd here now that there was a paved road. To my dismay I discovered the batteries to the camera were dead. I had forgotten to recharge them last night and this morning. A major mistake, very careless. I neglected the effect of the cold on the batteries. Oh well the images are in my memory. We did a lot of walking along the rocks to get better views of this massive natural freak. She didn't disappoint. Gunter then led us on another path, to Selfoss. Now I thought Selfoss falls were in the town of Selfoss, near Reykjavik. He chuckled and said folks are often confused by that. There are two Selfoss' in Iceland, one the town and the other the falls, which were soon in front of us. We were seeing them in winter so the usual cascading along the shore was not present, but what we saw were the very beautiful walls of this canyon that were unique columns of rock.
The number of waterfalls on this single river are superb and we were unable to visit others because of snow conditions. But this is worth a visit in the summer.
Totally exhausted and exhilarated we proceeded back down the road and snow drifts we had entered on to me car. We exchanged pleasantries and discovered we'd see each other at the Myvatn Nature Bath soon. The baths were filled with about a dozen other folks, all English speaking. This is one curious thing I have observed here. English may not be many travelers first language here in Iceland, but it is the common language for most travelers. When people meet and they speak various languages, English becomes the one they speak. For example, Gunter spoke Icelandic and English, the Germans spoke German and English, so they communicated in English. This has been what I have observed throughout Iceland. Everyone left the baths for their trip back to Akureyri. I stayed alone for another half hour enjoying the hot tub and steam bath.
The ride home was encouraging as I saw a clear sky and lots of stars. Perhaps tonight would be good for the Northern Lights. I decided to stay in, eat some smoked salmon and crackers with some wine while watching the Manchester City Dortmund Championship football match, Man City lost and were eliminated from the League this year. After the game, I got dressed and prepared myself for Northern Lights chasing. I headed north from Akureyri and took the road to Dalvik, past through this lovely little village to the end of the fjord. Just before a tunnel, which is a 5 KM single lane tunnel, I pulled off to the right to a parking area for Northern Lights viewing as directed by Alan, Eric's brother, the night manager. I could see Grimsey to the right and a clear lovely sky. It was 11PM. At about midnight the show began. Faint at first and I wasn't sure if my mind and eyes were playing tricks with me. But suddenly I realized these were the Northern Lights, faint at first then brighter and undulating. They were aqua green and formed in a nebulous cloud like shape. Then streaks, like spears shot out from different points and then disappeared. Slowly this mass evaporated. I felt like the crowd at Devil's Tower in Close Encounter of a Third Kind. I cheered, clapped and whooped it up, knowing I was disturbing no one but celebrating my first encounter with the Lights. About 15 minutes had elapsed. Soon further out, A green ring began to form that resembled a Venus Fly Trap with a solid distinctive, core with hundreds of tendril like green lights extending out. The extensions varied in length and intensity as the whole mass seemed to undulate in no pattern and with any rhythm. This show continued for about a half an hour as the shape held, but the explosive tendrils altered dramatically. The cold didn't seem to bother me as I was exploding with joy at what I was watching. Slowly this display faded away and the moon was just rising and beginning to light the entire area in light, making viewing more difficult. Since I saw my shadow, I decided to leave. It was 1AM. The show was over. Bravo sky, applause, Thank You.
When I returned to the hotel, Alan explained I had seen what were called the Icelandic crowd which is caused because of the proximity to the Arctic Circle.
My first stop was Godafoss. This is just off Rt 1 before a tricky single lane bridge. I navigated up the single lane access road and reached the parking area about 500 meters from Rt 1. Easy access to a wonderfully beautiful and powerfully spiritual waterfall. Seeing this magnificent waterfall in winter covered with ice and surrounded by snow was a treat. I remember it from my last visit 2 years ago in August.
I continued on my way to my goal, Dettifoss, 50 KM east of Myvatn. Dettifoss is the most powerful waterfalls in Europe. These falls are a gem and worth a real struggle to reach. My last visit was one of the most difficult drives over the roads of Iceland in that last visit 2 years ago in August. I didn't have an intention of seeing them this trip, but I learned that since my last visit, a paved road had been made from Rt 1 to the parking lot at Dettifoss. After driving through Myvatn, I drove 26 KM to the turnoff which was the beginning of a 24 KM road. Immediately I was greeted by a sign that warned me that the road was not cared for during winter. I crossed my fingers and headed off to Dettifoss.
The road was pretty clear and a plow had been through, but not recently. The wind created drifts across the road. Within 2 KM I was confronted by a snow obstacle that I was able to plow through. I knew I was up for an adventure. The landscape was frightening and severe as the paved road was partially covered with drifts making a two lane road a single lane road. There was a car in front of me as fresh made tire tracks indicated. So the raod was clear as far as I could tell since these were single tracks of one car. I felt hope. I approached a white road and and stopped to get out and survey the condition of the road ahead. The now was about 6 inches deep and lasted for about 100 yards. Since the vehicle in front of me had already made tracks I could follow through on those. I backed up to get some speed when I hit this snow field. I navigated through it in second gear weaving most of the way through. I got through and realized this was going to be the deepest snow I could through if I was going to reach Dettifoss. About halfway on this road, I reached a high snow back, but realized I could plow through this tall but short snow bank, especially since the car in front of me had already made the way clearer for me. I may have made it through this one, too, even if the car in front of me hadn't already made a path. After 2 more KM I came upon the car in front of me which was a large Iceland Jeep with huge balloon tires. He was huge up in a large snow drift. This was the end of the road for me. I got out, grabbed my shovel and walked up to the Jeep and helped him dig out. He was upset with himself because he had not let out air before attempting to get through this drift. He had been here 2 days ago and he had no problem. The wind of the last 2 days had created more and deeper snow drifts. When he let out air the belly of the Jeep got hung up on the snow. He was digging out. I helped on the passenger side. After about a half hour of digging he finally got through. He had been hired by the 2 passengers to get them to the waterfalls. Since I had helped them, I was offered the empty seat for the rest of the journey. I went back and got my camera, locked up the car and left it there. He put my shovel in the back of his Jeep and adjusted the air in his tires. He had an air pump attached to his car since he needed it when he did this over snow and glacier driving. The rest of the way was pretty clear until we got to the turn for the Dettifoss parking lot. We were confronted by a 5 foot drift that he navigated over with some work. When we reached the parking lot, we were the only visitors, no surprise.
The driver was Gunter and he was about 30. The passengers who hired him were a couple from Frankfurt, Germany, Frederick and Ingrid. The walk from there was over snow and was familair to me, since this was the same place I had been 2 years ago. It was a tough walk as the snow wasn't hard enough to bear our weight so we broke through often and that made the walk a real workout. My glasses fogged and I was beginning to sweat. When we finally reached the falls, the struggle was worth it as she was a magnificent sight. And being alone here was even more gratifying. I could only imagine the crowd here now that there was a paved road. To my dismay I discovered the batteries to the camera were dead. I had forgotten to recharge them last night and this morning. A major mistake, very careless. I neglected the effect of the cold on the batteries. Oh well the images are in my memory. We did a lot of walking along the rocks to get better views of this massive natural freak. She didn't disappoint. Gunter then led us on another path, to Selfoss. Now I thought Selfoss falls were in the town of Selfoss, near Reykjavik. He chuckled and said folks are often confused by that. There are two Selfoss' in Iceland, one the town and the other the falls, which were soon in front of us. We were seeing them in winter so the usual cascading along the shore was not present, but what we saw were the very beautiful walls of this canyon that were unique columns of rock.
The number of waterfalls on this single river are superb and we were unable to visit others because of snow conditions. But this is worth a visit in the summer.
Totally exhausted and exhilarated we proceeded back down the road and snow drifts we had entered on to me car. We exchanged pleasantries and discovered we'd see each other at the Myvatn Nature Bath soon. The baths were filled with about a dozen other folks, all English speaking. This is one curious thing I have observed here. English may not be many travelers first language here in Iceland, but it is the common language for most travelers. When people meet and they speak various languages, English becomes the one they speak. For example, Gunter spoke Icelandic and English, the Germans spoke German and English, so they communicated in English. This has been what I have observed throughout Iceland. Everyone left the baths for their trip back to Akureyri. I stayed alone for another half hour enjoying the hot tub and steam bath.
The ride home was encouraging as I saw a clear sky and lots of stars. Perhaps tonight would be good for the Northern Lights. I decided to stay in, eat some smoked salmon and crackers with some wine while watching the Manchester City Dortmund Championship football match, Man City lost and were eliminated from the League this year. After the game, I got dressed and prepared myself for Northern Lights chasing. I headed north from Akureyri and took the road to Dalvik, past through this lovely little village to the end of the fjord. Just before a tunnel, which is a 5 KM single lane tunnel, I pulled off to the right to a parking area for Northern Lights viewing as directed by Alan, Eric's brother, the night manager. I could see Grimsey to the right and a clear lovely sky. It was 11PM. At about midnight the show began. Faint at first and I wasn't sure if my mind and eyes were playing tricks with me. But suddenly I realized these were the Northern Lights, faint at first then brighter and undulating. They were aqua green and formed in a nebulous cloud like shape. Then streaks, like spears shot out from different points and then disappeared. Slowly this mass evaporated. I felt like the crowd at Devil's Tower in Close Encounter of a Third Kind. I cheered, clapped and whooped it up, knowing I was disturbing no one but celebrating my first encounter with the Lights. About 15 minutes had elapsed. Soon further out, A green ring began to form that resembled a Venus Fly Trap with a solid distinctive, core with hundreds of tendril like green lights extending out. The extensions varied in length and intensity as the whole mass seemed to undulate in no pattern and with any rhythm. This show continued for about a half an hour as the shape held, but the explosive tendrils altered dramatically. The cold didn't seem to bother me as I was exploding with joy at what I was watching. Slowly this display faded away and the moon was just rising and beginning to light the entire area in light, making viewing more difficult. Since I saw my shadow, I decided to leave. It was 1AM. The show was over. Bravo sky, applause, Thank You.
When I returned to the hotel, Alan explained I had seen what were called the Icelandic crowd which is caused because of the proximity to the Arctic Circle.
Monday, December 3, 2012
I woke today to rain and strong winds which started last night and continued all night. It was better than snow since the rain melted the ice which has been covering the road surface and making for dicey driving. After breakfast, I retired back upstairs to read until noon when the rain and wind stopped and the sun came out. The temperatures have risen from -6 Celsius to 2 Celsius, a heat wave.
I got dressed and headed out to do some banking went to the post office and then head out to the Kafti Brewery, north of Akureyri near Dalvik. I was the only visitor today, so I got royal treatment. It is quite the operation. The brewer was brewing and a truck was being loaded to distribute around Iceland. They brew beers for many organizations. For instance, the fishing ship get a brew with a label of the ship that they distribute to the crew. Music groups get their own brew as do clubs and organizations. Even GullFoss Falls restaurant has its own label. And of course I got to sample the different brews.
I had dinner at the restaurant Kung Fu. I had been told the beef was excellent, so I had the surf and turf. The food was excellent, beautifully presented and an ample amount. I returned to the hotel and watched the Newcastle Wigan match with the hotel night clerk, Alan, who is a great football fan and happens to be a Newcastle fan. The night is still not clear so no Northern Lights. The weather is clearing tomorrow for the next three days, so my fingers are crossed.
I got dressed and headed out to do some banking went to the post office and then head out to the Kafti Brewery, north of Akureyri near Dalvik. I was the only visitor today, so I got royal treatment. It is quite the operation. The brewer was brewing and a truck was being loaded to distribute around Iceland. They brew beers for many organizations. For instance, the fishing ship get a brew with a label of the ship that they distribute to the crew. Music groups get their own brew as do clubs and organizations. Even GullFoss Falls restaurant has its own label. And of course I got to sample the different brews.
I had dinner at the restaurant Kung Fu. I had been told the beef was excellent, so I had the surf and turf. The food was excellent, beautifully presented and an ample amount. I returned to the hotel and watched the Newcastle Wigan match with the hotel night clerk, Alan, who is a great football fan and happens to be a Newcastle fan. The night is still not clear so no Northern Lights. The weather is clearing tomorrow for the next three days, so my fingers are crossed.
Sunday, December 2, 2012
I woke early and got out by 10AM to make the drive to Myvatn.
Myvatn is a special place because of the volcanic action so recent in history. The drive (1 1/2 hours) takes me through a valley carved out by a glacier. It meanders through that valley and eventually up onto mountain ridges, past waterfalls, over rivers and eventually into the aftermath of a huge volcanic eruption a couple of thousand years ago.
The result is a unique moonscape with a large lake that is the major source for Arctic carp and dozens of variety of duck. It is a playground for people as this area is a national park with paths through the lava fields and a very unique natural bath which is heated by all the thermal activity in the area.
The Nature Baths are a delightful way to end the day before the drive back to Akureyri. I'm the only person here today for the first hour until I'm joined by a couple. As I leave at dusk, the place begins to fill up. These baths rival the Blue Lagoon. The baths are heated by thermal and the steam baths by a fissue in the ground. The baths are under constant supervision by a specialist who is watching monitors for danger. Because the lagoon is so exposed, I'm having snow blown over my head from the snowfields that surround the lagoon. My hair begins to freeze. But after being in the lagoon for an hour, walking around in this -3 degree Celsius weather, I'm unfazed. I spend two hours enjoying the baths and steam and have a most relaxing ride home in spite of the wild road conditions as the wind blows the snow across the road for nearly the entire 95 KM.
The horses seem to be be the only living thing that enjoys this wind and cold. And the Icelanders love their horses. They are as unique to Iceland as the ponies are unique to Assateague.
I decide to watch some American Football at the local sports bar which has the Vikings Packers game on of course. It starts at 6PM here. It makes for nice dinner entertainment.
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